Going back to Mongu.

So this past weekend I went home. Back to Mongu.  So I say I went home because as we were driving into town, that’s what it felt like, going home.  It was this overwhelming sense of nostalgia.  And it’s not like I’ve been gone for that long.  It’s only been a little over a month.  But I have all of these feelings wrapped up in Mongu.  My friends, colleagues, community....as much as I have loved making the move to Lusaka, I've missed living in small town Zambia this past month.  I went back for my friend’s going away party.  She was one of my closest friends in Mongu and I will miss her ‘too much’ as we say here.  We had a crazy weekend dancing at the Mongu clubs, having a braii on the plains, watching the Makishi perform and just generally enjoying a weekend away.  I’m grateful that I can still go back occasionally to visit.  I'm sure as more time passes it will be easier.  Lusaka will start to feel like home.  But, for now, I still love this little western town.

Here are a couple of pictures from the weekend.  In Zambia, the Luvale people hold the 'Makishi festival' to mark the end of the an initiation period. We had the opportunity to see some of the Makishi perform the afternoon of my friend's going away party in the Mongu plains which was really interesting.  Boys (usually ages 8-12) are taken into the bush for 1–2 months where they undergo several rites of passage into manhood. These involve learning certain survival skills, learning about women and how to be a good husband, learning about fatherhood, and also they are circumcised. To celebrate the boys' completion of their initiation the Makishi festival welcomes them back to the village as men. The night before boys from the village take their masks to the graveyard and sleep there, allowing the spirits of their ancestors to enter them. The following evening they appear in the village with their masks. Although the other members of the community know roughly who is taking part, they do not know who is under which mask. The masks represent specific characters.  I've posted a few pictures in my photo album if you get a chance to take a look (more to come soon so keep checking back...)!

The plains of Mongu.  

One of the Makishi.

My new home in Lusaka.

I have been in Lusaka for a week now.  It’s such a different experience and feel from where I have lived in Africa during my last several years (i.e., small communities in much more rural settings).  Sometimes it hasn’t even felt like I’m in Africa this past week.  Lusaka is a big city.  With traffic.  And restaurants.  And people don’t care that you are a foreigner.  Most people who haven’t been to Africa can’t imagine it could be like this in Africa…the perception is that living in Africa is hard.  And, of course, outside the major cities it is a different world.  But in a place like Lusaka it’s almost like being in America, really.  I mean if you look hard enough you see the cracks (and no you can't get everything you could get in America).  But, for the most part, it’s quite sophisticated.

I have moved into my new home.  It’s a small rondavel…how to explain a rondavel?  It’s a round house with a thatched roof and everything is contained in the one room (there is a small kitchen and bathroom).  It’s great because the high thatched roof keeps the temperature quite cool and it’s perfect for me.  My move was pretty easy because in Mongu I didn’t really have anything (except my clothes and a few essential items) so when I learned that this place was fully furnished I figured we were a perfect match.  And I’m loving the space so far…it’s close to a small shopping complex and my office is about a 20-30 minute commute.  The one problem might be the ants...because of the thatched roof the ants seem to want to share my space.  I'll have to figure that one out.  I suppose this a reminder I'm in Africa.

Other than that, I’m trying to get into a groove with my new job, learn how to drive on the wrong side of the road, and make a few friends (while still keeping in touch with all of Mongu friends…yes, I miss them terribly).  One of my closest friends left the country on Saturday (she finished her contract here in Zambia) and I’m learning the transient nature of this work is going to be difficult as many great people come and go. 

Here is a picture of my new little home (I'll try to take a few more).  I hope you like it as much as I do. J

Going back home.

I’ve been looking forward to returning to my Peace Corps community since I left in March of 2012.  It’s just one of those moments you imagine when you say goodbye because the reality is you never know if you will get the opportunity to go back? 

But, I am one of the lucky ones (at least I feel like one of the lucky ones)!  Last week, I had the opportunity to go back to South Africa to visit my community, my friends, my family.  Yes, these people were, and are, my family.  I will never forget those initial moments of being reunited.  It was simply fantastic!  I got to see so many people who had made a profound impact on my life.  Women I worked with who had become friends.  Children from the Phedisang centres who I had played with every day.  The youth from  my intern project and girls from our camp.  The family who I spent countless Sundays with baking and going to church.  All such amazing people.  And, of course, the family I lived with although one of the saddest parts of my return home was not being able to see the man who had supported me throughout my time living in the community, Piet, my host father.  In June, he passed away.  It was difficult to be back and not see him.  But I got to spend some time with other family members which provided comfort and allowed for a bit of healing since I hadn't been able to go back for his funeral and memorial service.  I sure do miss him though.  

The reason I went back was to help with a project very close to my heart.  The Roedean-Phedisang Residential.  Through an amazing partnership with a school in Johannesburg called the Roedean School, every year a select group of girls are brought to the rural community where I stayed to help at the organization which I supported during my Peace Corps service, the Phedisang Project.  The girls (who are all in grade 11) meet the children who visit the centers every day, play games, help with various projects, and just generally get to see what it’s like to live in the rural areas of their very own country.  South Africa is a strange and complicated country (as are most places).  The poorest of the poor live in the same country with some of the most wealthy.  So the girls are able to learn and appreciate what it’s like to move around in a world that is usually very different from their own.  I helped organize and participated in this project during my Peace Corps service but going back was an amazing opportunity and allowed me to continue to support the project.  I feel lucky to have this rare opportunity and look forward to staying involved. 

I have to also say that I am so proud of the work that continues at Phedisang.  The people working there are doing some fantastic things.  If you are interested in supporting their work, please let me know and I will tell you how you can help.  There is still lots to be done!  I have put some pictures up so that you can see the girls from Roedean in action and of course my amazing project and community - which I will always consider home.  Also, you can visit the blog which the girls updated during their stay (it’s one of the links on the right).

The Secret.

“Remember that your thoughts are the primary cause of everything.” 
― Rhonda Byrne, The Secret

I have wanted to find a way to stay in Africa and I suppose the universe has been listening.  I am happy to tell you that I have been given the opportunity to stay here in Zambia.  I will be working for the same organization, JSI (www.jsi.com if you are interested in reading a bit more about the work we do), but I will be moving from Mongu to our central office in Lusaka into a different role.  I am thrilled about the opportunity and feel lucky to have found a job that will be both challenging and allow me to stay in this beautiful country.  Of course, I will have to find my way navigating around a much larger city (Lusaka is the capital of Zambia and the biggest city here with a population of about 2 million) but at least I am somewhat familiar with the city after weekend visits during the past year and a few friends to help me along the way.

I will officially be moving in September and will let you know my new mailing address (so probably best to not send any more mail since it takes about 2 months to get here).  I look forward to sharing new adventures and, as always, you are welcome to visit anytime!

Holiday in the desert.

It’s been a good holiday week.  Okay, it didn’t start off so exciting.  I traveled to Lusaka initially to get my dentist appointments over with…yes, the tooth that broke eating rice in Mongu is now fixed and hopefully there will be no further teeth problems in my near future.  It was certainly a problem dental year.  Anyway, after the dentist saga I met up with my friends from Mongu to attend our friend Karen’s wedding which we were all quite excited about since it was our first Zambian wedding.  Turns out it was pretty westernized but still fun.  We watched them say their vows in the morning and then attended the reception and enjoyed some dancing and although it was freezing we braved the cold and stayed until the very end (in fact, I think we were the last guests to leave).

The next morning I left to Namibia with my friend Mine – Namibia has been one of the countries I’ve been anxious to get to so was excited to finally be making my way there.  Mine and I decided not to do too much planning and really just sort of planned as we went.  Unfortunately, we didn’t plan for the extreme cold which we encountered upon our arrival.  It was crazy!  We both had to buy jackets and basically wore as many clothes as possible to stay warm.  We still had a great time visiting the beautiful Namib desert and taking a day trip to Sandwich Harbor (outside of Walvis Bay).  We stayed in Windhoek a couple of days and then drove to the coast where we stayed for several days.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to drive down south (to Fish River Canyon which I’ve heard is beautiful) but maybe next time.  We loved the amazing coastline bumping up against the desert though and had a great time learning how to “sandboard.”  Turns out it’s really just like snowboarding only very sandy.  Our only complaint was the cold…who knew the desert would be so cold?  But the beauty made up for our lack of warmth.

I hope you enjoy the photos (make sure to visit my photo album over there to the right).  I came back feeling refreshed and relaxed.  Now, back to Mongu.  For now.  

Happy in Zambia.

Mongu, Zambia.   I can’t believe I’ve been in Mongu now almost 9 months.  I have come to love this little town in the west.  Filled with sand and fish!  When you look out onto the plains it feels like you are at the end of the world.  The sunsets here are amazing.  Truly some of the most spectacular I’ve seen in my lifetime.  I love my work and the people here.  I feel really busy.  I teach yoga to a small group a couple times a week (and, yes, I'm still running in the morning!) and have a network of friends which keep me busy.  When I leave my office I’m tired - a good kind of tired.  I travel into the field for monitoring and evaluation site visits usually twice a month which is always an adventure (one that I love).  I have learned so much about logistics as it relates to health commodities in Zambia.  I really wish I had the opportunity to stay longer here as I just feel like I am getting settled and starting to contribute.  I am really happy.  But, change is always around the corner...and as we all know wherever you go, there you are.

     

What's in Sioma.

This weekend we did a quick overnight trip to a tiny little town about two hours south of Mongu called Sioma.  According to Lonely Planet, the only reason to go to Sioma is Ngonye Falls and I do have to agree with them although it's worth a visit as the falls are quite beautiful and it was a nice little break from Mongu.  In order to get to Sioma, you have to take a couple of taxis and cross the Zambezi River.  But I was pleasantly surprised at how organized this process was? It amazes me sometimes how transport can just work out as you are getting around Africa (I mean you still have to wait but things usually do come together).

Sioma really is quite beautiful and the falls are truly spectacular – imagine Victoria Falls except there are literally no tourists around (I mean there were barely any people in the entire town)?  There is also a game park nearby which we didn't go to but maybe next time?  Now that we know it’s really not that difficult to get to the area and I’ll be coming back in a couple of weeks for work to a neighboring district (Shangombo) and I’m told that I’ll get to see game as we drive to the health facilities.  Pretty spectacular.

I've put a couple of pictures up so make sure to visit my Photo Album!

Sending my love from Sioma.